Cacti, Worms, and High Prices

People hold a lot of misconceptions when it comes to tequila.

When people think of tequila, they usually think of a story from their youth that starts off with an amazing evening of fun, friends, and shooters and ends with a horrible morning of headaches, missing keys, and a new tattoo. Yes, tequila is surrounded by myth and legend, which is why so few people truly understand this incredible spirit.

There are a number of misconceptions about tequila that seem to persist, even as the drink grows in popularity. I want to take the time to clear some of these up.

First, tequila and mezcal are not the same thing. These two products are very similar and mezcal production led to the drink called tequila, but they are considered exclusive of each other with regards to spirit classification because of differences in the distillation process. While both products use the agave plant, it is the way the plant is processed that changes the flavour profile and purity ranking of the final spirit.

In 1994, the Government of Mexico defined how and where mescal and tequila can be made. All tequila comes from Jalisco state, whereas mescal is made in various states. Therefore, the relationship between the two spirits is analogous to that of brandy and cognac. Simply put, all tequila is mezcal but not all mezcal is tequila.

Second, tequila is made from the agave/maguey plant, not cacti. Cacti may be used in traditional Mexican cooking, but it is never an ingredient in alcoholic drinks. The agave plant is actually related to the lilly. It has a huge “heart” at its center which can weigh anywhere from 60 to 400 lbs each. Before the sap is harvested, the hearts are baked or steamed in above ground ovens. Similarly, mezcal is made from agave that is charred on palm mats in open pit underground ovens.

Once distilled, usually three times, some tequilas are aged in oak barrels, which provide a stronger flavour and colouring and are called añejo. The tannins from the barrels colour the tequila while flavouring it at the same time. Añejo are usually the more expensive tequilas, but prices for all varieties have increased over the last five years. The reason for this is the declining number of agave plants due to various fungal infections and other environmental factors. The price of tequila is reflective of the limited amount of product for consumption around the world.

Third, there is no worm in a tequila bottle! This was only a marketing ploy initiated by American bottlers with hopes of increasing sales in the 1940s and is not a traditional garnish. It’s not even a worm, but actually the larval form of a moth. And it certainly does not have any psychotropic effects.

The other interesting thing about tequila is the aging process. Because it is aged in a warm climate, there is more evaporation, producing a quicker transference of flavouring and colour from the wood of the barrels to the liquid inside. Spirits in the south age four times as quickly as they would further north. So a six-year-old tequila has undergone approximately the same aging process as a 24-year-old Scotch. That also means that a larger amount of the “angels share” (the liquid that has been evaporated from the barrel) is lost every year.

Some tequila basics to remember: Tequila blanco, or white, means little or no aging. Resposado is straw coloured, with mild aging and a sweeter taste. Añejo has gold colouring, is aged four years or more, and has a smooth, full flavour.